Michael McCarthy

February 15, 2012

Wilderness cabin calls to Kerouac fans

By Michael McCarthy

Desolation PeakThe hikers stop to rest at a scenic lookout and the fog finally begins to break. At this elevation, with a few rays of sunlight reflecting off its surface, Ross Lake far below is no more than a slender blue thread. High above, Desolation Peak is still shrouded in drifting fog. The hikers commence their arduous slog, the swirling mists part for a brief moment and there it is: Jack Kerouac’s famous cabin. A Zen-like image in the fog, and then… poof… it's gone.

When aspiring novelist Jack Kerouac ventured this far into the wilderness in northern Washington State in 1956 to work as a summer fire lookout in the midst of these jagged peaks of thunder and lightning, he was a nobody, a drifter, a bum. It was a full year before his famous classic On the Road made Kerouac a star and changed American culture forever.

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February 09, 2012

Cycling: the best speed to see the world

By Michael McCarthy

Cycling ChinaJet travel allows the global tourist opportunities to see the world in a fashion not enjoyed by previous generations. In days of yore, only the idle rich could afford the Grand Tour, and it took them months of hard travel by boat, train and carriage to do so. However, supersonic speeds are not the best way to experience the world.

As I pedalled among the rice paddies and green fields of Guilan District of southern China, I realized that cycling is the perfect speed at which to see the world's intricacies, and, as a bonus, you work up a healthy appetite for lunch along the way.

Often tourist destinations turn out to be a disappointment, not because they aren’t as interesting as described in travel guides, but because they are indeed as good as touted so everybody else has already beaten you there.

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January 31, 2012

Lanterns reveal old and new Taiwan

By Michael McCarthy

Lantern FestivalThere is something about a 500-foot tall plastic rabbit with flashing eyes and strobe lights that makes you sit up and pay attention. You could travel the world and never see such a bizarre structure, but at the annual lantern festivals in the tropical island of Taiwan such gigantic creatures as electronic rabbits and high tech dragons are all the rage. Old traditions and new technology mix together well in Taiwan, but never better than during the annual lantern festivals.

Cities and towns all over Taiwan vie for the honour of hosting the annual lantern festivals to honour the New Year. Teams and companies spend months and much money to create enormous structures to match the craziness of the New Year celebrations. Given Taiwan’s position as a global leader in electronics, it’s no surprise that good old-fashioned lanterns have taken on a high tech look.

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January 25, 2012

Cajun culture swings in backwater Louisiana

By Michael McCarthy

Blue Moon Saloon

Vermilionville, Louisiana, is a replica of a French settlement dating from the 1800s and a popular tourist attraction located just outside of Lafayette, the “capital of Acadiana.”

You’ll find Lafayette about 190km west of the big city of New Orleans as the crow flies. This is pure “Cajun” country, comprised of swamps and backwater bayous. Many little towns in the region are, literally, swamped by dance music. The aroma of tasty Cajun cooking wafts through the air and old-fashioned French is often spoken.

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January 18, 2012

Ghost city on the Indian plains

By Michael McCarthy

Fatehpur SikriThe fabulous Taj Mahal, located in Agra, central India, is a beautiful building, one of the most famous and recognizable in the entire world. But the nearby ghost town of Fatehpur Sikri is easily more fascinating.

Situated only 30km west of the Taj, out in the emptiness of the desert, Fatehpur Sikri blends both Islamic and Hindu elements into its fantastic architectural style. A brilliant variation of red sandstone only available locally was used for construction of most of the buildings, which provides the city with much of its fabulous red lustre.

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January 03, 2012

Window shopping in Beverly Hills

By Michael McCarthy

Beverly Hills

Beverly Hills has been home to the stars (and the ultra rich producers and promoters who can also afford to live there) since the original Beverly Hills Hotel was built back in 1912 in the midst of what was then an apple orchard. Movies aren’t made on Hollywood movie lots any more (it’s a tawdry area full of cheap tourist junk) but many Hollywood stars still live in nearby Beverly Hills. Of all the attractions in Los Angeles, Beverly Hills may be the most scenic, and it costs nothing to window shop.

Sometimes real movie stars can be sighted in the fashionable shopping district centred on Rodeo Drive.

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December 15, 2011

Little Lhasa emerges in ancient Nepal

By Michael McCarthy

Little Lhasa

For those interested in experiencing true Tibetan art and culture, Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, has taken the place of Lhasa, Tibet, as a tourist destination. In Kathmandu, in the northern Boudinath district of the city, there are now so many Tibetan attractions and recent refugees that the area is becoming known as "Little Lhasa," and it’s well worth a visit for those people interested in Tibetan Buddhism. Centred around the largest stupa (temple) in the world, tourists can find more than 40 different Tibetan monasteries, arts and crafts stores, restaurants, cyber cafes, bookstores and guesthouses, many of them catering to western visitors.

Nepal is a poverty-stricken country and it often appears that the only thriving industry is tourism. Where else can you get a room in a guest house run by chanting monks wearing purple robes for $10 a day, a breakfast for 25 cents, and enjoy an earnest conversation about existentialism with an elderly bearded sadhu (wandering wise man) toting a trident and speaking excellent English with a 1910 Oxford accent while asking for a modest tip for his time?

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December 07, 2011

Riding the Toy Trains of India

By Michael McCarthy

Toy Train 1

There is something about riding a "toy train" that brings out the child in everyone. The expression refers to the smaller gauge railways built by the British Raj a century ago and still working industriously in some parts of India today. Take the Himalayan Queen, which descends down the Himalayan foothills from the old British hill station of Shimla in northern India. The Queen rides on a single track of 2-ft 6-in gauge, descending down from the clouds in Shimla.

On its five-hour, 96-kilometre descent, the train winds its way along at a sedate 22km/h pace through an astounding 102 tunnels – some up to 3,000 ft in length - and an equally amazing 864 bridges, making it one of the most picturesque train trips on the entire planet.

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November 29, 2011

Ancient Angkor Wat one of the world's great wonders

By Michael McCarthy

Angkor Wat 3

It’s known as one of the great wonders of the world, but chances are you have never heard of it, and certainly most people in North America have never visited the place. Buried deep in the jungles of northern Cambodia lie the remains of the fabulous 12th century temple complex of Angkor Wat, slowly emerging from the sleep of centuries as archeologists carefully dig through the remains of what was once the world’s largest city.

Located just outside the rapidly growing town of Siem Riep, Angkor can easily be reached these days via international flights that touch down briefly in the capital of Phnom Penh, itself an architectural delight well worth an extended visit. From Phnom Penh there are one-hour flights onward to Siem Riep.

"Wat" means temple, and Angkor actually refers to a vast complex of temples that stretches for more than 50 miles throughout the steamy jungles, many still in a state of disrepair. Touring all of the temples in one visit is literally impossible; the heat and humidity, crowds and touts are quite draining. While Angkor may not be well known to the west, certainly Chinese and Japanese tourists have discovered it by the busload. Temples can be crowded on any day of the year.

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November 17, 2011

Mystic Gwaii Hanaas brought alive by zodiac tour

By Michael McCarthy

Ninstints

Those rare visitors to Gwaii Hanaas National Park (formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands) who want to paddle or sail all the way around the island chain face an arduous and often dangerous adventure through open waters. Luckily, there is an alternative. Moresby Island Explorers, based in the tiny town of Sandspit, offer adventurous travellers an exciting excursion: a four-day trip via zodiac boat. Whereas experienced kayakers who know how to read the tides, currents, winds and weather can take a few weeks to paddle the islands, those with less time or skill are best served by riding these high-speed crafts.

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