Divine indulgence at Steeples in Shawnigan Lake
By Holly Rose
I am seated in a beautiful space, feeling a little reverent. While it is true that I am one to feel a great sense of reverence for culinary delights or an excellent glass of wine, I have only arrived at Steeples Restaurant and it is the space itself that inspires these feelings.
For the last 10 years, Steeples has been satisfying its patrons with an elegant ever-changing menu and its enticing selection of local (and global) wines, ciders and beers.
Prior to being the culinary prize of Shawnigan Lake, this space was once a place of worship. One glance around Steeples Restaurant and its history is evident. Proprietor Darren Cole ensured with his renovations that the beauty of the building was showcased.
Rich exposed beams shine in the afternoon light on my visit. Most of the brunch clientele has already moved on but a few linger on the protected patio with its lovely view of Steeples' manicured grounds. In the evening the patio is often full with the breeze of BC's summer nights, never bothering those under the shelter of heat lamps.
It is lovely to have spectacular surroundings, but what is beauty without substance? Ah yes... my salmon arrives as if the thought of it made it so. It is accompanied by a saffron papaya cream reduction and a delightful risotto. Tender fresh local carrots and pale petite beets complete my delicacy and I dine with pleasure. The complex interplay of saffron and salmon exorcise the boredom from my palate.
The popular heated patio at Steeples
The menu is extensive, featuring a wide variety of fare. I adore their reinvention of the classic mac & cheese with their Baby Lobster Mac & Cheese with Brie Cheese, Apple Wood Cheddar, Parmesan and Goat Cheese. They have also opened up their lunch menu, offering three course options for a mere $10.
Salmon with Risotto with Saffron and Papaya Cream Reduction
I had to drop in and try this last week as well. I have to report that the portion sizes did not shrink away and the options were interesting and up to par with Steeples reputation.
Locals love to say that Steeples it the best shared secret of Shawnigan Lake. This year, Steeples was named to the Top 5 Small Business B.C. Successful You Awards list, quite a feat considering the size of the restaurant and the sleepy little town it serves.
In the 10 years since its inception, Steeples has become more than a restaurant in a one-gas-station town—it has become a destination. It has been host to a multitude of talented chefs, and its current Head Chef Justin Yariwon learned from many of those who worked before him.
Justin started with Steeples at age 15. At 21, he has become a valuable asset and an imaginative chef. His passion and talent for the cuisine he creates is apparent and quite infectious.
Certainly if one were to say that there is heart in a well prepared meal, and body in a beautiful (perhaps even local) wine, indeed there is soul in the location of a space. And so, from this perspective, I was nourished heart, body and soul.
If you have not visited Steeples or not visited lately call 250.743.1887 to make reservations or visit them online for more details at www.steeplesrestaurant.ca.
- Photos & text by Holly Rose©


